For nearly 100 years, craftsmanship and attention to detail have been part of Sankei Meriyasu’s approach to garment making. With its long history in the textile industry, Sankei Meriyasu combines traditional techniques with seamless knitting technology to produce luxurious and comfortable knitwear.
The company also produces GOTS-certified products. GOTS applies to textile processing and manufacturing stages after raw fibre production and sets requirements covering specified environmental, chemical and social criteria within its scope. Compliance with applicable GOTS requirements is independently assessed and certified by accredited third-party Certification Bodies.
GOTS recently spoke to Sankei Meriyasu President and Representative Director Tokuo Miki and his children, Yasuko Miki and Ken Miki. Bringing perspectives from different generations in the fashion and textile industry, they shared their views on current trends, sustainability, their brand, the future and more.
GOTS: Can you talk about the wide range and trends of fashion in Japan?
Yasuko/Ken: Japanese fashion is globally recognised for its diversity, ranging from genres like Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and NIGO’s Ura-Hara style to Uniqlo’s basic fast fashion. However, there are many other options within Japan that are less known internationally. These include designer brands and domestic SPA (specialty store retailer of private label apparel) brands that are affordable and trend-conscious. Among these, factory-origin brands also form a distinctive genre within Japan. Each generation enjoys self-editing and personalising their style, even within the same brand, reflecting the diversity of Japanese fashion.
Tokuo: There are products at many different price points, and a large proportion of clothing sold in Japan is produced overseas. I see the current situation, where a large amount of clothing is made for short-term consumption and fleeting styles, as reminiscent of the monoculture era in different countries where they produced sugar and other luxury goods.
GOTS: How do you see the younger generation today thinking about environmental and social issues in their everyday lives?
Yasuko/Ken: The younger generation is vocal about their values and preferences, using new platforms to express their thoughts and emotions. They don’t just act but also share their ideas and look for others who share their views. From our perspective, questions about environmental and social issues are becoming a more visible part of these conversations.
Tokuo: Many people believe that the current situation will continue indefinitely, so I think few young people feel the difficulty of sustaining it. However, in Japan, practices within families, such as not leaving food unfinished and using things completely, have been ingrained from a young age. I think these are valuable habits to carry forward.
GOTS: What are some tips for anyone thinking more carefully about the textiles they choose and use?
Yasuko/Ken: There is no need to force it into your life. Instead, choose items that you genuinely like and want to use for a long time. Being interested in the stories and backgrounds of the things you buy can also help you learn more about how they were made. It’s our responsibility to continue creating and sharing those stories.
Tokuo: Continue using things you like. Avoid being swayed by momentary pleasures.
GOTS: You have another brand that focuses on high-quality basics. What makes Eiji “the perfect” T-shirt for you?
Yasuko/Ken: For us, the Eiji T-shirt is special not only because of its production background and the soft, comfortable fabric created by skilled artisans, but also because it can be customised to the individual. Unlike conventional T-shirts that are pre-made to standard sizes, the Eiji T-shirt can be tailored to the wearer. The ability to repair the T-shirt and continue wearing it over time is also an integral part of the Eiji philosophy.
Tokuo: I believe it’s because it’s a T-shirt that the craftspeople who make the clothes most want people to wear and trust to be good.
GOTS: Sankei Meriyasu has a nearly 100-year history. What changes have you seen, and what has inspired you to maintain the company’s approach to quality over the years?
Tokuo: When I inherited Sankei Meriyasu as the third generation, the work of making clothes domestically in Japan was gradually decreasing, with production in China increasing, making it a declining industry domestically. In such circumstances, together with skilled craftspeople and cooperating factories, we have struggled to change how and what we make to adapt to the times and somehow keep the factory running.
However, in order to maintain the factory, I have always felt that “making money doesn’t justify everything” and “I don’t want to make clothes that make people unhappy.” As a result of continuing to make clothes with these feelings despite the difficulties, 100 years have passed. That is my honest impression.
GOTS: Ken and Yasuko, what was it like growing up around this company? What did you see and learn from being in this environment?
Ken: Growing up, I remember our factory as a lively and welcoming place. I enjoyed seeing people working together, including collaborations with workers from other factories. Growing up in this environment allowed me to see the care that goes into making products and gave me a strong sense of community.
Yasuko: Honestly, when I was little, I didn’t fully appreciate how valuable the workshops and factories we work with were. The employees and workers were always very friendly and would compliment me, so it was fun to hang out at the company. Now, I feel incredibly fortunate and grateful to have them as part of our team. Their dedication is central to the quality of the garments we make.
My grandmother, who worked at our company until she was 80, inspired me immensely with her hard work and impeccable style. She’s the most stylish grandmother I’ve ever known, and she definitely motivated me to work hard and dress well.
GOTS: Yasuko, you now live in the U.S., giving you a different perspective on the fashion world. From your experience, how do conversations about environmental issues and fashion differ between Japan and the U.S., particularly New York?
Yasuko: From my personal experience, these topics seem to be more visible in everyday conversations and shopping in New York. For example, I see organic cotton products and second-hand shopping frequently. Thrift shopping is particularly visible here.
In Japan, I think there is an opportunity for consumers to learn more about how textiles and garments are produced and about their environmental impacts. I also see more of these conversations taking place among younger people through social media.
GOTS: Do you see the relationship between nature, cities and textile traditions differently in the two places?
Yasuko: In Japan, there are many artisanal textile and garment producers with specialist skills and long-established production techniques. Some of these skills are at risk of disappearing because producers cannot find successors. I think it’s important for people in Japan and elsewhere to understand these skills and the work behind them.
In New York, I see a strong emphasis on innovation and new approaches to urban living, from rooftop gardens to developments in fashion and materials. I think there are interesting ideas and experiences that people in Japan and New York can learn from each other.
GOTS: Where do you see the company going in the future?
Ken: We create unique clothes that only we can make, and we now have the means to share this with the world. We’ve realised that if we create what we truly want to make and share it globally, there will be people who appreciate and need it. This makes us very optimistic about the future. We are focused on preserving and passing down the techniques of our predecessors to the next generation with a strong sense of purpose.
